During our visit to Strasbourg, we took a day trip south to visit some of the surrounding towns. The highlight for me was Mont Sainte-Odile Abbey, one of Alsace’s most breathtaking and historically rich sites.

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Nestled high in the Vosges Mountains, this ancient abbey is perched on a rocky outcrop. At 764 meters above sea level, the monastery offers sweeping views of the Alsace plain, stretching to the Black Forest in Germany on a clear day. The site has drawn pilgrims, monks, and curious travelers for centuries.

Mont Sainte-Odile is named after Saint Odile, the patron saint of Alsace. Born in the 7th century to the Duke of Alsace, she was blind from birth. Her father, who had desperately wanted a male heir, was so ashamed of her that he ordered her to be put to death. Odile’s mother defied him and had her sent away to a convent. There, a bishop miraculously restored her sight during her baptism.

Her brother invited her to come home, but Dad was none too happy, so he killed the brother. Feeling bad, though, he offered to let Odile still come home if she married an ally of her father. Odile said no thank you very much and decided to run away, but tripped and was going to be caught except a rock opened to let her hide inside. Her father was convinced this was a miracle and so he gave Odile his castle to turn into a monastery. (What a guy!)

Ah, but there is no evidence of that dramatic origin story today. Walking through the monastery’s serene entrance, we toured the buildings, made of reddish Vosges sandstone. Despite centuries of renovations and reconstructions, the monastery still retains a sense of timelessness. Some parts date back to the early Middle Ages, while others have been modified over the years.

The buildings were closed when we visited, so we hiked along the path that led us into the surrounding woods and past a high stone wall decorated with ceramic stations of the cross.

Further down, we found the Pagan Wall that encircles parts of the site. This ancient stone wall, stretching nearly 10 kilometers, predates the monastery by centuries. No one knows exactly who built it or why. But I guess when you don’t have Netflix, you find other ways to fill the time.

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Mittelbergheim

Following our visit to Mont-Odile, we continued down Alsace’s wine country stopping in a few villages along the way. Mittelbergheim retains its cobbled streets and half-timbered houses draped in vines, and panoramic views of rolling vineyards.

We stopped at Domaine Gilg for the obligatory wine tasting and left with two bottles of Pinot Noir to warm us up later. Clearly, a longer visit to the Alsace Wine Route is in our future.

Chris O’Brien

Paris, France

Onward…

Strasbourg is the capital city of the Grand Est region, formerly Alsace, in northeastern France. Nestled along the Rhine River, it is also the formal seat of the European Parliament and sits near the German border, with culture and architecture blending German and French influences.

The city's history dates back to Roman times when it was established as Argentoratum, a military outpost. However, it was during the Middle Ages that Strasbourg truly flourished as a Free Imperial City within the Holy Roman Empire. This unique status allowed it to develop its own distinctive culture, architecture, and trading relationships. The city's strategic location at the crossroads of major trade routes contributed to its prosperity and cultural diversity.

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Grande Île

The historic center of Strasbourg is an island — Grande Île — encircled by the River Ill (pronounced "eel" in French). The Ill splits into multiple channels as it flows through the city, creating the island. The branches of the Ill that wrap around the historic center are the main channel of the Ill on the southern side and the Canal du Faux-Rempart on the northern side.

At the western end, the water is controlled by the 17th-century Vauban Dam (Barrage Vauban), which was designed as part of the city's defensive system and could be used to deliberately flood the southern plains in case of attack.

The Ponts Couverts (Covered Bridges), despite no longer having their wooden roofs, still cross these waterways with their three remaining 13th-century towers.

The Grande Île was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1988 and showcases one of the most well-preserved medieval city centers in Europe. Timber-framed houses with their distinctive steep roofs and colorful facades line the narrow cobblestone streets.

European Parliament

We visited the European Parliament when it wasn’t in session, which is most of the time as it turns out. The Parliament Building, known as the Louise Weiss Building or the "Tower of Europe," is located in the European Quarter northeast of the city center.

Completed in 1999, the building is an architectural statement in glass and steel. The building's transparent design is supposed to represent the openness and accessibility of European institutions to citizens. The tower, which appears deliberately unfinished on one side, symbolizes the ongoing construction of European unity.

The Parliamentary Chamber, or Hemicycle, which seats all 705 Members of the European Parliament (MEPs), is impressive with its sweeping amphitheater design and modern technological facilities for simultaneous interpretation in all EU official languages.

Petite France

Petite France is the most picturesque and historic quarter of Strasbourg, located at the western end of the Grande Île. Originally, this district was the home of the city's tanners, millers, and fishermen in the Middle Ages and Renaissance periods.

The name "Petite France" comes from the "Hospice des Vérolés" (Hospital for Syphilitics) that was built in this area in the 15th century to treat soldiers who had contracted what was then called the "French disease." Good times.

Like much of the city center, the district is characterized by half-timbered houses from the 16th and 17th centuries that lean out over the canals, featuring their distinctive steep roofs with open lofts where tanners would once hang their skins to dry. Former water-powered mills and tanning houses have been converted into restaurants and hotels.

Museums

We spent 6 days in Strasbourg during our most recent visit, which gave us plenty of time to explore beyond the Christmas markets. Strasbourg’s many museums

Museum of Alsace

The Alsatian Museum was created in the early 1900s to reinforce the region's identity against attempts at Germanisation. Located in 3 former houses in Strasbourg, linked by a maze of stairways and connecting passages, the museum displays over 5,000 artifacts witnessing the daily life of Alsatians in the 18th and 19th centuries. Furniture, homeware, toys, traditional costumes, tools, sacred artifacts, and images are on display in the 30 rooms.

Museum of Strasbourg

The Historical Museum of Strasbourg is located in the city's Grandes Boucheries (slaughterhouses), which were built in 1588. The museum covers the period from the Middle Ages to today. While the museum tracks the way the region ping-ponged back and forth between German and French control, it very much emphasizes that the people here think of themselves as distinctively Alsatian first.

The museum also does its best to lay claim to the Johannes Gutenberg legacy. Born in Germany, his family fled due to political unrest. Gutenberg did a lot of the development of his printing press while living in Strasbourg between 1434 and 1444. He returned to Mainz, Germany where he completed work on the printing press, and changed the course of human history. And so, Germany tends to get the Gutenberg glory.

Palais Rohan (Archaeological Museum, Decorative Arts Museum, Fine Arts Museum)

The Palais Rohan, often called the "Versailles of Strasbourg," exemplifies French Baroque architecture. Built in the 18th century for Cardinal Rohan, it now houses three important museums: the Archaeological Museum, the Museum of Fine Arts, and the Museum of Decorative Arts.

Tomi Ungerer Museum - International Illustration Centre

Located in the Villa Greiner, the museum holds a collection of 14,000 drawings donated to his hometown by Tomi Ungerer, a cartoonist and illustrator born in 1931 in Strasbourg. The collection houses 8,000 original drawings, sketches, sculptures, and posters.

Chris O’Brien

Paris, France

Rising majestically above the medieval streets of Strasbourg, the Cathedral of Notre Dame stands as one of Europe's finest examples of Gothic architecture and a testament to human ingenuity.

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For over 800 years, its distinctive pink sandstone facade and singular spire have dominated the city's skyline, earning it the admiration of visitors such as Victor Hugo, who described it as a "gigantic and delicate marvel."

Construction of the cathedral began in 1015 with a Romanesque church. However, today's structure primarily dates from the 13th to 15th centuries. The transition to the Gothic style started in 1176 under the direction of Master Builder Erwin von Steinbach, whose architectural genius would set the foundation for generations of craftsmen to follow. The cathedral's construction spanned multiple centuries, allowing it to showcase the evolution of Gothic architecture from its early phases to its flamboyant period.

The cathedral's west facade is particularly noteworthy for its harmonious blend of architectural elements. Standing 142 meters high, the north tower and its spectacular spire were completed in 1439 by Johannes Hültz. From 1647 to 1874, it was the world’s tallest building.

The planned south tower was never built, creating an asymmetrical appearance that has become one of the cathedral's most distinctive features.

The building's exterior is adorned with thousands of sculptures, ranging from biblical figures to whimsical grotesques. The carved details showcase medieval craftsmanship at its finest, with each figure telling its own story within the greater narrative of Christian salvation. The pink Vosges sandstone used in construction gives the cathedral its characteristic warm hue, which seems to change color throughout the day as the light shifts.

The facade features three richly decorated portals, with the central portal dedicated to Christ's passion and resurrection. Above these, a magnificent rose window spans 13.6 meters in diameter, flooding the interior with kaleidoscopic light through its intricate tracery.

Interior

Inside, the cathedral reveals itself as a masterpiece of medieval engineering and sacred architecture. The nave rises to a height of 32 meters, supported by massive pillars and flying buttresses that allow for vast expanses of stained glass windows. The geometric precision of the vaulted ceiling demonstrates the medieval builders' advanced understanding of mathematics and structural engineering.

Other notable interior elements include the pulpit, carved in 1485 by Hans Hammer, featuring intricate Gothic tracery and statuary.

The organ, housed in a case from 1385, remains one of Europe's oldest surviving organ cases. The cathedral also houses remarkable stained glass windows dating from the 12th to 14th centuries, including the famous Jesse Window, which depicts the genealogy of Christ.

Astronomical Clock

Perhaps the cathedral's most famous interior feature is its astronomical clock, the third to occupy this space since 1354. The current clock, installed between 1838 and 1843, is a remarkable feat of mechanical engineering and astronomical calculation. Standing 18 meters tall, it combines artistry with scientific precision, tracking the movements of the sun, moon, and planets.

The clock features an automaton show when figures representing the apostles parade before Christ, while a rooster crows three times in remembrance of Peter's denial.

The clock's mechanisms include a perpetual calendar, an ecclesiastical computer that calculates the date of Easter, and various astronomical indicators. The clock face displays not only the time but also planetary positions, solar and lunar eclipses, and various celestial phenomena with remarkable accuracy. This combination of scientific precision and artistic beauty makes it one of the world's finest examples of Renaissance mechanical craftsmanship.

Visiting

The cathedral has weathered numerous historical challenges, including the Protestant Reformation, when it briefly served as a Protestant church, and the French Revolution, during which it suffered some damage but was largely protected by local citizens. During World War II, the stained glass windows were removed and stored safely, protecting them from bombing damage.

The Strasbourg Cathedral draws more than 2.5 million visitors each year, making it the most visited cathedral in France during the closing of its famous cousin in Paris. It was classified as a historic monument in 1862 and has been part of the UNESCO World Heritage site "Strasbourg, Grande-Île and Neustadt" since 1988.

The cathedral is free to visit, but check hours in advance because access is limited during masses. Lines to enter can be long to get through security. For more information, see the website.

Chris O’Brien

Paris, France

There are endless good reasons to visit Strasbourg in northeastern France along the German border.

There is the famed Christmas market in the winter. The soaring Gothic Cathédrale Notre-Dame. The European Parliament where, on occasion, politicians gather to do some stuff. You can catch views of the Rhine River. Or, wander the streets of the old downtown.

We did all of that. But we also came to eat.

And so we ate like fiends, indulging our love for the region’s Germanic-influenced gastronomy. After sampling the famed Christmas markets (see here), we eventually moved on to several outstanding local spots (both traditional and non-traditional).

Here is our culinary roadmap.

La Corde À Linge (clothesline)

2, Place Benjamin Zix

Our first stop was chosen randomly but we got extremely lucky. Perched right on the river, no reservations are needed for this cozy restaurant.

Top: “Pur Laine” hamburger with bacon (left); “dentelle” of beef with salt, vegetables, potatoes, parsley, and mustard sauce (middle); tartine flambée (right).

Bottom: Le Marcel salad (left): lettuce, goat cheese, red onions, cauliflower, parsnips, pear, and tomatoes. Creamy cheese spaetzle (right).

Les Chauvins Père & Fils

3, rue du Faisan

Les Chauvins serves "tapas alsaciennes." It's a genius concept for sampling regional favorites:

Top row (left to right): Fleischschnäcke (meat-wrapped noodles); Hot Dog Alsacien (with bacon and horseradish); Grumbeerekiechle bibelesk (potato pancakes).

Second row: Cappucinos du moment (butternut squash); Carpaccio de légumes d’automne.

Third row: Flammekueche; Mini-Burgers.

Left: “Kougelhopf” prepared as “pain perdu” (French Toast) with fresh fruit and cream.

Right: “Fondant maison au chocolat Equateur” from the Schaal chocolate factory in Geispolsheim and ice cream.

Piano Grill

8 Pl. Saint-Étienne

Nestled in a little square off the tourist path, this sweet bistro was incredibly welcoming on a cold day. The neighborly vibe was matched by very good food.

Left: “Crazy Salad” with treviso, lettuce, red cabbage, roasted butternut squash, walnuts, comté, smoked duck breast, pan-liver escalope, and grapes.

Right: Burgers for the kiddos

Salon de thé Grand'Rue

Salon de thé

80, Grand’Rue

Left: Tarte au fromage (cheesecake)

Right: Gratin aux fruits

Café Bretelles

Another random find: We stumbled into this small, artisanal cafe for a delightful brunch.

Left: Granola Breakfast

Right: Chai latte, Pomme Continental Breakfast Chocolat Chaud.

Center: Continental Breakfast with egg and ham.

Not pictured: Giant homemade Twix bar.

Chris O’Brien

Paris, France

Nestled in the heart of Strasbourg, we spent 4 nights at Les Haras Hotel which offers a blend of historic charm and contemporary luxury. We tend to be rather frugal travelers, but it was the holidays so we decided to go a bit more upscale and treat ourselves to accommodations that also included a spa.

Arrival and First Impressions

The hotel is located outside of the city center, just across the river, where the neighborhood doesn’t necessary suggest anything remarkable. But stepping into Les Haras Hotel we were immediately in another world.

The hotel, housed in a 17th-century former royal stud farm, boasts stunning architecture that pays homage to its historic roots. Exposed beams, vaulted ceilings, and tasteful décor create an ambiance that is both cozy and sophisticated.

That history with its suggestion of rustic charm blends with the modern touches in terms of the decor and ambiance.

Room Comfort and Design

We booked two rooms — one for the adults and one for the kids. The hardwood floors and soft lighting created a serene feeling. In the rooms, and throughout the hotel, the lights are covered with white folded fabric in the shape of a nun’s habit, a nod the nearby former convenant.

Gastronomic Delights

One of the highlights of staying at Les Haras is its exceptional dining options. The hotel is home to the renowned Brasserie Les Haras, helmed by a team of culinary experts who deliver an unforgettable gastronomic experience.

The restaurant’s menu showcases refined French cuisine with a modern twist, using locally sourced ingredients to create dishes that are both innovative and comforting. At the bar, we learned that the hotel considers itself a specialist in gin, and the bartenders offered us some samples of the some of the gin infusions they had created.

In the mornings, there is a choice of a continal breakfast or a more lavish breakfast buffet with freshly baked pastries, artisanal breads, and a variety of cheeses and charcuterie.

Wellness and Relaxation

After a day of sightseeing, we returned to Haras for a turn in the spa, which includes a heated indoor pool and the sauna and streamroom.

This kind of detoxing and destressing was the perfect way to really feel like we were on vacation and left the real world behind.

We arrived in Strasbourg on Christmas day. At least once in the lives of any resident of France, one must visit the self-proclaimed Capital of Christmas. While there is no way to verify this subjective title, Strasbourg goes all out to convince any visitor that there is no rival to its Christmas mania.

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There are several markets scattered across the city center, which transforms into a walled fortress surrounded by police who limit access to ensure security in light of attacks on such markets across Europe in recent years. We never felt anything less than safe.

Chrìstkìndelsmärik

We began our multi-day Christmas Blitzkrieg at the Chrìstkìndelsmärik, one of the main markets where we immediately feasted on bratwurst, vin chaud, and spaetzle. We are lovers of German food and a trip to Strasbourg is always an opportunity to indulge. (More on our gastronomic adventures in the next NL.)

Au pied du grand sapin (Place Kléber)

This market serves as Grand Central, with a light and music show each hour throughout the evening around its massive Christmas tree. Located in Place Kléber, the market also has several rows of chalets selling food and holiday trinkets.

But the attraction here is the Grand Sapin which is a big deal for locals (or so the brochures tell us). As the official program states: “The public follows its journey with bated breath from the forests of the Vosges to the center of Strasbourg!”

Autour de la cathédrale

The architectural centerpiece of Strasbourg of the Notre Dame Cathedral. There is a market of chalets packed around this square, though “packed” is the keyword here. Bring a stick to beat your way through the crowds. We wedged our way through and moved on to more tranquil settings.

Le quai des délices

This sweet little market sits right on the banks of the river and is all about Christmas treats like gingerbread, sweets, and wines. Most of it is locally produced.

Village de l’Avent

This is another smaller market tucked in the oldest part of Strasbourg. It features local farmers and artisans, dubbed the Irréductibles Petits Producteurs d'Alsace. There is also a small stage that features different musicians throughout the day.

Flâner

Of course, the whole city is dressed in its Christmas best. In the end, the highlight of the Christmas adventure was just wandering the streets and marveling at the elaborate decorations.

Chris O’Brien

Paris, France

During our summer vacation in the South, we made the 40-minute drive to Lagrasse, following a winding road through vineyards before climbing a twisting road over the hills that eventually dropped us into a valley where the town sits.

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Lagrasse’s status as a regional tourism hub was confirmed by the presence of several large tourist buses and a parking lot with a special section for campers and RV. Still, the city center hardly felt overwhelmed with visitors even at the height of tourist season in early August.

The historic city center features limestone buildings that have been well maintained, and the cobblestone streets are worth wandering in any direction without a map.

Eventually, our stroll took us into the Église Saint-Michel de Lagrasse, a Gothic structure that dates to the 14th century but has undergone numerous renovations and expansions since then.

Cathar Connection

In terms of historical hotspots, everything in Lagrasse is overshadowed by the Romanesque l’Abbaye Sainte-Marie de l’Orbieu, which dates back to 799.

The Lagrasse Abbey was one of the most powerful Benedictine abbeys of the Languedoc region in Southwestern France. The abbey is listed among the 22 official sites of the “Pays Cathare,” but there isn’t much of a link to the heretics (who didn’t believe in building things and writing). The 13th-century crusade by Northerners to wipe out the Cathars and annex the South weakened the abbey’s influence and financial status.

However, that doesn’t diminish its modern-day splendor. Beyond its architectural delights, the Abbey also serves as a cultural center, primarily for books and reading, with a book store and a rich lineup of events throughout the year.

Indeed, Lagrasse has become renowned for its thriving community of artisans, including weavers, glassmakers, potters, and numerous other designers. Turn any corner and you will discover another boutique or workshop.

Outdoors

While many of the tourists arriving plunged right into the old Medieval city center, many others headed straight to the numerous paths into the surrounding hills. Lagrasse serves as a kind of gateway into the foothills of the Pyrénées.

During a previous visit, we hiked one of those trails: “Les fesses de Charlemagne.” (the buttocks of Charlemagne) It started with a pretty stiff climb uphill for 30 minutes, but the result was spectacular views of the surrounding countryside.

This time, we stayed in the valley and followed the River Orbieu west for about 45 minutes. Just outside of town, a small damn had created a popular swimming spot.

Further down, we passed small farms connected to the abbey and abundant wild blackberry picking.

Food And Drink

We arrived after lunch, so we didn’t test any of the restaurants. But walking down the main road we regretted that a bit as we watched others finish off their lunches at the several restaurants lining the boulevard.

However, I couldn’t resist a stop at the Kino Karo boutique. We had discovered Kino Karo during our epic lunch in Minerve when I ordered L’estivale aperitif: Kino Karo, sparking wine, slices of orange and lemon. I asked the waiter to describe Kino Karo, and he said it is a bitter regional spirit with a kind of citrus-y twang.

Stopping at the shop, the clerk gave us a bit of history behind the drink. In 1928, a local named André Carreau developed a quinquina spirit, an aromatized wine that is a cousin to vermouth but that used local plants to create its distinct aroma and flavor. As a business, it eventually faded away.

Then in 2020, his grandson Aurélien Carrelas resurrected the recipe and relaunched the business. The modern version gets its flavor from Haitian Bitter Orange, Ecuadorian Quinquina, and Madagascar's Cinnamon, as well as a mix of local plants.

I left with a sampler kit to experiment with later.

On our walk back to the parking lot we made a detour into La Cour Des Saveurs, which includes La Basse Cour restaurant, a coffee stand, and a local vinegar shop.

Of all the temptations, we chose Moulin de Boysède, an artisanal bakery run by the owners of a local honey farm. The sign outside promised “honey and cookies.”

We bought the cookies, which were almost gone by the time we got home. A sweet way to end the day.

Chris O’Brien

Paris, France

During our summer vacation in Southern France, we took a day trip to Fontfroide Abbey. The site had been on my radar because of its connection to the region’s Cathar history. But beyond its links to everyone’s favorite heretics, it’s a spectacular example of Medieval architecture.

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The abbey is at the center of Fontfroide Massif — about 4,000 hectares of rolling hills that eventually merge into the Pyrénées. It’s a jumping-off point for several hikes, though we didn’t get a chance to explore the hills because most of the routes were closed due to potential fire hazards. Still, the Mediterranean landscape makes a lovely backdrop.

Founded in 1093, Fontfroide Abbey became part of the Cistercian order in 1145, a movement known for its austere lifestyle and devotion to simplicity. This transition marked the beginning of the abbey's golden age, as it gained influence in the religious and political affairs of the region.

During the Albigensian Crusade — the crackdown against the Cathar heretics — in the 13th century, the abbey played a significant role.

As the Cathar movement spread throughout the Southern France region of Occitania, the inappropriately named Pope Innocent III condemned them as heretics. The monks of Fontfroide supposedly tried to persuade the Cathars to cease and desist in their attempts to reestablish a more pious sect of Christianity. The pope appointed Pierre de Castelnau — a Fontroide monk — as papal legate to snuff out the Cathar movement.

In early 1208, Castelnau was assassinated, allegedly by someone working for Cathar sympathist Raymond VI, Count of Toulouse. This became part of the pretext for the pope to team up with French nobles in the north to launch a bloody crusade to wipe out the Cathars and fully annex the semi-independent region. Local feelings about this still remain raw.

Fontfroide remained an influential force in Medieval Christianity, with one of its monks Jacques Fournier becoming Pope Benedict XII.

While the abbey had a good run, by the early 20th century, the monks were gone and the buildings were in an advanced state of decay. In 1908, it was bought by local art collector and painter Gustave Fayet and his wife Madeleine. Gustave devoted his life to restoring the abbey though eventually returned to painting and collecting.

Today, Fontfroide Abbey is not only a historical monument but also a cultural center. It regularly hosts concerts, art exhibitions, and wine tastings. The abbey produces wine from its own vineyards which can be sampled in its gourmet restaurant.

Mellow Vibes

To reach the abbey, we drove past dozens of the region’s vineyards to arrive at the secluded spot. A small stone bridge took us over a stream and into the outer limits of the abbey. While there were a few dozen visitors wandering about, it was still incredibly serene. The abbey’s sandstone walls have been weathered by centuries of wind and sun, but they are still in remarkable condition.

The majestic Romanesque church is the centerpiece of the abbey. With lofty ceilings, the church is otherwise a model of Cistercian architecture which reflected the monks’ devotion to a life of prayer and humility.

The sparse decoration is only interrupted with just the occasional carved image or stained-glass window.

The Cloisters

The heart of any abbey is its cloister. The square courtyard at Fontfroide is surrounded by elegant arcades, each column adorned with intricate carvings that reveal an artistic spirit long before the Fayets arrived.

Walking through the cloister, the cool shade of the arches provided some nice relief from the scorching Mediterranean sun. In the center of the courtyard, there was a garden with lavender and rosemary, a hint that Frontfroide has also become a host for various floral exhibitions.

The cloisters were once the hub of monastic life, where monks would walk in silence, read scripture, and engage in contemplative prayer. The view from each archway into the surrounding hills feels like it hasn’t changed much in subsequent centuries.

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The Rose Garden

On the far side of the abbey is a rose garden that was originally planted in the early 20th century by the Fayets. The garden, framed by the hills surrounding the abbey, is another spot where one can understand that this must have been the perfect meditative spot for those monks.

Central Courtyard

In the abbey’s early years, the central courtyard was the location of various workshops, including a forge and a bakery. The placement was strategic because its well provided access to water from an underground stream of cold water. Thus the name: “font froide” which means “cold spring.”

Like much of the abbey, it also doubles as an exhibition space for various collections.

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Modern Art Love

Since the purchase and restoration by Gustave, Fontfroide has been hosting artists and their works. When we visited, the featured exhibition was by street artist Spiktri, who creates art from reused objects.

It’s amazing to think that there was a pretty decent chance Fontfroide wouldn’t exist today. That it still manages to reflect the spirit of the couple that rescued it from oblivion by tastefully blending its architectural legacy with a celebration of modernism makes it a triumph of preservation that was well worth the detour.

Chris O’Brien

Paris, France

Minerve is a Medieval village in the Hérault Department in the Occitanie region of southern France.

During our vacation in this region wedged between Carcassonne and Narbonne, we made the short drive to Minerve at the suggestion of our host. Climbing the last winding miles gave us an impressive view of the town, which is classed among the most beautiful villages in France.

Minerve is perched on a plateau surrounded by limestone gorges that were carved over the centuries by the Cesse and Brian Rivers that encircle the village. These waterways have left behind a series of caves and rock bridges that are as much an attraction as the village.

After parking just above the village, we talked down a path into Minerve that gave us a closer view of the gorges.

Minverve is a small cluster of streets with a mix of boutiques and restaurants.

On the far side of Minerve, we walked down a stone staircase to reach the bottom of the gorge.

Once we reached the bottom, we could have turned left and followed a 9 KM route. We turned right and took a shorter path, but one that was still spectacular.

Rounding the first bend, we approached the stone bridge that leads into Minerve. Just before reaching it, we entered the “Pont Grand,” the first of a series of natural “bridges” carved into the limestone.

We walked for about an hour before re-tracing our path back to Minerve.

Cathar Country

Minerve has been on the map since at least 873. But its big historical moment came during the 13th century when it emerged as a gathering point for the religious heretics known as the Cathars.

The Cathars were real party people. These Medieval Christian extremists broke with the Roman church, which they saw as corrupt. The Cathars believed in a duality: a Good God represented by the New Testament and an Evil God represented by the Old Testament. Because the Old Evil God made everything in the world, that meant that all physical things were evil.

While they followed the teachings of Jesus, they did not believe he took physical form. Because all physical things were evil, they did not build churches or write stuff down, which means their true beliefs and legacy are a bit fuzzy. Oh, and sex and marriage were forbidden because pleasure and touching were bad bad bad. (Not super strategic for propagating your cult, but…) They were so against reproduction that they also did not eat cheese, eggs, meat, or milk because there would have been some animal sex behind all of it and killing animals was bad.

Despite their religious extremism, they have been romanticized by some because they were opposed to ownership of private property, hated war, and believed men and women were equal. They were Religious Fanatics AND they were Hippie Vegan Socialists. So whether you’re a religious extremist rooting for the apocalypse, or a New Age seeker looking for spiritual motivation, the Cathars had a little something for everyone.

Naturally, the Pope was having none of it.

He teamed up with some scheming Northern French nobles who saw this as an opportunity to seize control of the semi-independent Southern region. Thus began the first Church-sanctioned crusade. This was a pre-game warmup to the later Middle East crusades and the Spanish Inquisition.

Led by the Big Baddy Simon de Montfort, French troops laid siege to Minerve for five weeks in the summer of 1210. This included building a giant catapult on the far side of a gorge and bombarding the locals who lacked food and water.

Of course, Minverve fell and de Montfort gave the Cathars a choice: renounce their belief and accept the Pope, or else…

140 Cathars chose ‘or else’ and were burned alive at the stake. Some even reportedly threw themselves into the burning wood piles.

Hungry In Hérault

After the hiking and history, we treated ourselves to a stellar lunch at Le Relais Chantovent, a restaurant in the heart of Minerve with a terrace overlooking the gorges.

We started with 2 aperitifs:

1. L’estivale: Kino Karo (this was new to me, but it’s a local citrus-based spirit), sparking wine, slices of orange and lemon.

2. L’Hibiscus: Chardonay with a confite of hibisicus.

The menu says L’Hibiscus is the best seller, but we preferred the L’estivale.

Amuse bouche: a melon-based delight.

Entrée:

1. Fresh goat cheese of Combebelle, courgette carpaccio, pepper slurry, parmesan crumble, and oat flakes.

2. Beef tataki marinated with soybean, spring onions, and roasted seeds.

3. Vegetables, garlic cream, gazpacho of cucumber, and green pepper.

Plat Principal:

1. Slow-roasted pork (24 hours at 64 degrees), lemon condiment.

2. Slow-roasted veal medallion, cooked in the fig leaf (22 hours at 66 degrees).

3. Vegetarian plate

Dessert:

1. Chocolate fondant Valrhona, hazelnut ice cream from Piedmont,

2. Roasted nectarine, verbena-lemon sorbet, almond slices.

The Cathars wouldn’t have appreciated any of it. But we did.

Chris O’Brien

Castelnau-d'Aude

Amid a bookend of massive rainstorms that left thousands of locals in the upper half of France without power, we somehow managed to sneak out for a quick getaway on the one day when the sun paid a visit.

Though we have lived in the North of France for almost 3 years, we are still learning our way around. From our perch west of Paris, the most convenient place to escape for a country hike is Normandy. It’s a vast region that encompasses the famed cliffs and the D-Day beaches along the coast.

But it is still intensely rural, mostly flat. I joked elsewhere that much of Normandy looks like my home state of Kansas where one can gaze to either side and see the curve of the horizon in the distance. Except that there are more Gothic cathedrals.

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We took a 2.5-hour hike that started in the village of Crestot, and then looped around through Hectomare, passing near the village of Amfreville-Saint-Amand before turning back to Crestot. Over the day, our travel did indeed take us past 4 cathedrals that were certainly not among the most famous in France, but noteworthy nonetheless.

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Auch is the unofficial capital of Gascony, located in the heart of the Gers Department in the Occitanie region. Auch was once home to Henri IV before he became King of France. Today, it offers the perfect place to discover the rich Gascogne cuisine and begin exploring the area’s Armagnac industry.

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The town, population of around 24,000, is about 1 hour west of Toulouse, accessible by a local TER train. On a crisp weekend morning, I traveled by train with my bike to Auch and then spent the day exploring the hilltop town on two wheels.

The city center is dominated by the Cathédrale Sainte-Marie which overlooks a plaza lined with restaurants. Construction began in 1489 on the site of the former Romanesque cathedral and the cathedral was completed in 1680. Its façade combines different architectural styles (Gothic, Renaissance, and Classical.

On this Saturday morning, the plaza was humming with a farmer’s market as people shopped and then settled onto one of the terraces for such delicacies as foie gras, magret de canard, and just about anything you can imagine cooked in duck fat.

Alternately walking and riding, I wandered the narrow streets sampling local products.

One of the “can’t miss” features of Auch are the Auscitaines pousterles. These are steep stairways that lead from the upper, historic city center, to the lower city along the Gers River.

Instead of the Auscitaines pousterles, I carried my bike down the monumental staircase that offers a sweeping view of the lower city. And of course, it includes a statue of that favorite Gascon hero, D'Artagnan.

History

Augusta Auscorum fused the cultures of the Aquitanian people who settled on the banks of the Gers River and the Roman culture that arrived following Julius Caesar's conquest. Following the collapse of the Roman Empire, the town and the whole region came under the control of the Visigoths.

Auch really began to develop in the 16th century, when the king’s representative began to transform it. Major works launched under the Second Empire in the 19th century gave the city its modern appearance.

Exploring

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Dreux is a located in the Eure-et-Loir department within the Centre-Val de Loire region. Sitting about 50 minutes west of Paris, it made for a perfect getaway for us, including a lovely hike along the Eure River, a stroll around Dreux’s historic city center, and then a decadent lunch at a local bistro.

The countryside

The Eure-et-Loir department is intensely rural and wooded, with a wide selection of trails for hiking and biking.

We began the morning driving north of Dreux to walk a 2-hour route (Vallée de l’Eure de Sorel-Moussel à St Georges Motel) that straddles the Eure River, as well as the neighboring Eure department.

It was a gentle circuit along a peaceful setting, that also covers part of the 25 km Voie Verte de la Vallée de l’Eure. As riders zipped by us, we regretted just a little not bringing our bikes so we could have covered even more terrain to visit some of the other local villages.

The town

We then drove about 20 minutes into the historic city center of Dreux. The tourism office has created an official walking tour of the old city’s highlights, marked by bronze symbols and panels that give bits and pieces of the history.

We only did a small improvised part of this, but still hit many of the most notable sites in about 45 minutes. The centerpiece of the town both geographically and in terms of its identity is the Dreux Bell Tower. Construction of the Belfry, which was formerly, the town hall, began in 1512 and was completed 25 years later. Its decoration was initially Gothic on the first floor but evolved into a Renaissance style on the second floor.

The Bell Tower is the dominant feature of a surrounding plaza that stretches across the city center.

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La Drôme is a departement in the Auvergne Rhône-Alpes region in Southeast France, with the Rhône River running along its western border, the city of Grenoble just to the east, and Lyon about one hour to the north.

In other words, it is the type of place that most people would typically pass through on their way to a more renowned region of France. But La Drôme shouldn’t be skipped. Within this incredibly diverse corner of France, one can see mountains in the east, and experience lavender fields in the south.

Exploring La Drôme reveals its own natural wonders, some hidden architectural jewels, a rich history, and regional cuisine. And there is remarkable camping and hiking, including the Huguenots Exile Trail and the Val de Drôme natural reserve.

One nice bonus: More than 80% of visitors are French, mostly from surrounding regions. There are some tourists from the Netherlands, Germany, and Belgium. But almost no Anglophones come here (4% of tourists are from the UK). So La Drôme offers a regional French authenticity even during busy tourist seasons.

Natural Wonders

Starting in the south of the departement, the “Drôme Provençale” has fields of thyme and lavender, cypress, and oak trees.

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When you think castle or château, the first name that pops into the minds of many Francophiles is “Loire.” The region about 2 hours south of Paris is renowned for its spectacular châteaux. Our epic family bike trip through the Loire remains one of the highlights of our time in France.

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But for a day trip, the Loire is just a bit too far from Paris (at least for us). We prefer to limit travel to about an hour. So with an open weekend, we decided to plan a little getaway. Because we are still relatively new to the North of France, the surroundings of Paris are a bit of a blank spot for us.

Not having a ton of time to research and prepare, I opened Google Maps and drew a mental circle of about an hour around our home on the western side of Paris. Within that parameter, I spotted a vast stretch of green called the Parc Naturel Régional du Gâtinais Français which offered lots of hiking, biking, and other outdoor activities.

This is not a park that’s likely to show up on many travel guides or Top 10 destination lists. I suspect it’s a bit overshadowed by the Forêt de Fontainebleau just to the east. After our trip, I mentioned Gâtinais to some French friends who said they had never heard of it and had no idea it existed. Just blank looks and shrugs.

Given the size of Gâtinais, we still had to narrow it down to a particular spot. Zooming in, I saw a castle thingy in a northwest corner of the park called Chamarande. Good enough. We hopped into the car, largely flying blind.

Domaine Départemental De Chamarande

One of the great things about living in France is that you can just close your eyes, point at a random spot on the map, and there is a very good chance that it will turn out to be lovely.

Ok, not every spot. The drive from our apartment took us through a lot of homogenous suburban nothingness filled with strip malls and low-rise office buildings and fast food restaurants and generic homes. Again, the kind of places that travel guides won’t mention but also exist in abundance here.

At the end of this somewhat monotonous trail, we arrived at Domaine départemental de Chamarande. As rewards go, this was a good one.

Despite this being a Saturday morning in late June with perfect weather, we basically had the 242-acre domaine to ourselves. As the day progressed, a few more families arrived for picnics and walks, a wedding party posed for pictures, and a non-profit organized a little lunch on the grounds for its members. Yet for most of the day, we could walk for long stretches without crossing another soul.

Chamarande is now run by the Essonne Department. The government council bought the estate in 1978 and turned it into a public good. That includes creating an archive for Essonne’s documents, which comprises an 8-floor silo under the château's courtyard that now has 32 km of shelves. We did not visit the archives.

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We did visit the château which is now a contemporary art museum. The current exhibit included works of various media by 9 artists exploring the meaning of “territory.”

The grounds are dotted with other, often surprising artistic works.

But the main attraction remains the grounds themselves.

We walked the paths for hours which are sketched along a series of canals and a larger pond. Canopies of trees kept us mostly cool as temperatures climbed in the afternoon.

Various châteaux and houses for the richy rich had been built on this land as far back as the 9th century. The main predecessor was constructed in the 16th century but was sacked during a fun but obscure piece of French history known as the Fronde.

The Fronde (sling, referring to a preferred weapon by some) was a succession of civil wars between 1648 and 1653 during the reign of King Louis XIV. This was a major bummer for him timing-wise because the Thirty Years War had just ended but now France was at war with Spain. The uprising was led by various nobility and cardinals who were not pleased by a series of tax hikes. So, the king had a lot on his plate. As he tended to do, the Sun King defeated everyone and emerged more powerful.

Post-Fronde, Louis’ secretary, Pierre Mérault, bought the land and built the castle we see today. The brick, rectangular building had a moat and some ornamental trimmings but was not so garish by French castle standards. He also began developing a series of canals, lakes, and a few fountains around the grounds.

Apparently, Mérault wasn’t so good with money. He went bust and sold the estate in 1684 to pay off debts. The buyer was Clair Gilbert d'Ornaison, the "valet de chambre" to Louis XIV who gave it the name Chamarande. Over time, the domaine passed through numerous wealthy owners and local mayors before finally being bought by the local government.

At noon, we ducked out to each lunch at the only restaurant in town, which was decent enough. But the people who brought picnics clearly had the right idea. There are picnic tables sprinkled around the park, and our only regret on this day was that we didn’t pack lunches.

As random day trips go, we felt like we had won some sort of prize. And we still have the rest of the Gâtinais to explore one day.

For now, I’ll leave you with the Chamarande hype video:

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Chris O’Brien

Le Pecq

The northeastern town of Colmar is located in the Haut-Rhin (Rhine) department in the Grand Est of France, an area historically referred to as Alsace. Because Alsace was annexed by Germany after the 1870 Prussian War until the end of World War I, the Alsace region’s culture is a strong mix of its French and German heritage.

The old town is remarkably well preserved despite being at the center of three major wars between France and Germany. Visitors can walk its cobblestone streets and see colorful and classic timbered buildings that date from the Medieval and Renaissance periods. A series of canals feeding off the Lauch River crisscross the city center, which is now called la Petite Venise.

At the heart of this section of town is the Quai de le Poissonerie (fishmonger's district, see main photo above), a once powerful economic force in Colmar. This is where most of the professional fishermen and boatmen of Colmar lived when they were a powerful economic force in the town. A massive renovation project 40 years ago has restored many of the most vibrant homes in this neighborhood.

Stroll out of Little Venice to see Saint Martin’s Collegiate Church, a Gothic wonder originally built between 1235 and 1365. It’s been ravaged by various fires over the centuries which were followed by restorations. The church has been considered the center of religious life here even though it does not have the official status of a cathedral.

Comar’s other architectural landmarks include the Pfister house, a Medieval structure built in 1537 for a money trader. It features wooden framing, a turret, and murals that mix religious and secular subjects.

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Paris’ famed Notre Dame cathedral remains closed following the 2019 fire that captured the world’s attention. The government is rushing to meet a self-imposed deadline for restoring it by the end of 2024, though it remains unclear when tourists will be allowed to enter the famed structure.

Fortunately, France seems to have as many Notre Dame cathedrals as it does Starbucks. Indeed, some will argue that these “other” Notre Dames are more architecturally spectacular than their Paris cousin who tends to get all the international fawning.

So as you dream about visiting France, here are 8 Notre Dames worth putting on your travel itinerary.

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Chartres

Located about one hour southwest of Paris, the Cathedral of Our Lady of Chartres (see the lead picture) was built between 1194 and 1220 and represents a combination of High Gothic and Romanesque styles. But it is perhaps most famous for its remarkable stained glass windows.

Amiens

The birthplace of President Emmanuel Macron is located about 90 minutes north of Paris. The Basilique Cathédrale Notre-Dame d'Amiens was primarily built between 1220 and 1270 in the High Gothic style and is one of the largest in France. One could place two Paris Notre Dames inside this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Lourdes

Millions of pilgrims come every year seeking miracles in the waters of Lourdes, which many believe have special healing powers. A teenage girl named Bernadette Soubirous claimed she saw visions of Jesus’ mother, Mary, who told her about the waters. The Gothic-style Basilica of the Immaculate Conception was built above the grotto where Bernadette had her visions and was completed in 1876.

Bayeux

The Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Bayeux is located in Normandy and dates from July 1077, though most of the construction occurred from 1230 to 1270, some sections were not fully completed until the 19th century. The famed Bayeux Tapestry, which depicts the Norman conquest of England, was originally designed as a decoration for the interior of the church.

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Lyon

The Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière sits on a hill overlooking the city and was built in the 19th century. The church was built using private money to honor Mary for intervening to spare the city from attack during the Franco-Prussian War of 1870. The basilica mixes Romanesque and Byzantine styles, making it distinct from many of the other Notre Dames. It also is known for the elaborate mosaics inside and the vibrant stained glass windows.

Rouen

The Cathédrale Primatiale Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption de Rouen replaced a Romanesque church. There had been a church on this site as early as the year 395. In the 1020s, it was gradually replaced with a church in the Romanesque style. By 1145, Gothic-style additions were made which led eventually to the whole church being demolished in stages and rebuilt in the Gothic style that is present today. Over the centuries since, additional towers have been added and new Renaissance artworks placed inside.

Lille

The Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-la-Treille de Lille is unusual both for the length of its construction and its hybrid appearance. The main chapel is in the Neo-Gothic style and is located in the old town of Lille. The work was originally commissioned by a mix of wealthy local businessmen and clergy who launched a competition to choose an architect. Though a design by an Englishman was chosen, a French architect was then hired to oversee the construction which was plagued with problems. The project frequently ran out of money and the building halted for long stretches. The full cathedral was only finished in 1999 using a modern design to complete the final sections.

Marseille

La Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde is nicknamed La Bonne Mère (The Good Mother) and dates from the late 19th century. Construction took more than 40 years. The church sits on a hill overlooking the city and is a dominant feature of Marseille’s skyline. The church underwent a major renovation 20 years ago because the original stone used in construction suffered severe corrosion from its proximity to the sea.

Chris O’Brien

Le Pecq

Brittany remains one of France’s most untamed and vast territories. We spent a lovely two weeks camping there in 2017, and we still only saw a couple of tiny corners. One of the striking things about the Brittany coast is that it conjures a sensation of standing on the edge of the world.

You can stay in Brest as a hub for discovering the region. But step away from the mainland to visit one of the islands off the coast and you’ll really feel like you’re standing on the precipice. One of the best islands to get this experience is Ouessant (or Ushant in the Breton language).

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The Pic du Midi de Bigorre is located in the Hautes Pyrénées department and the Occitanie Region. The observatory perched on top of the 2877-meter summit allows for panoramic views across the 300 km mountain range that runs along the French and Spanish border.

Visitors reach the Pic by cable car (€47 for an adul…

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It might be tempting to describe the Ardèche department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region by its proximity to other more famous places in France.

Just south of Lyon. Just northeast of the Cévennes. West of Grenoble. Hugging the Rhône River that flows along its eastern border. Ardèche isn’t home to any great cities. But what this sparsely populated territory does have is some of the nation’s most spectacular scenery.

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That starts with Les Gorges de l’Ardèche, a 30 km canyon in a natural reserve that runs along the Ardèche River that has carved deeply into the region’s limestone. You’ll find here the Pont d’Arc, a natural stone bridge over the river that is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s a region rich in natural wonders that provides a great spot for biking, hiking, and camping.

Pont d’Arc is a gateway into a National Nature Reserve where you can find the Chauvet Cave which was discovered on December 18, 1994, in Vallon Pont d'Arc. Its paintings date from 36,000 years ago and are among the oldest such examples of primitive art in the world.

Also not far from the Pont is the village of Vogüé, officially labeled one of the “Most Beautiful Villages of France.” Vogüé leans against the cliffs and the old town forms an amphitheater along the edge of the Ardèche River. It’s a great starting point for descending into the river for a canoe trip.

Before dipping into the river, however, stroll around the Medieval streets of Vogüé to see a small chapel called La Gleyzette which overlooks Le Château de Vogüé and its suspended garden.

Another destination worth a visit is the village of Labeaume, which also forms a kind of natural theater. The town is host to a popular music festival each year.

And of course, the region has its distinct culinary calling cards. Most notably, Ardèche is known for its chestnuts. Also, for the local goat cheese called Picodon and the local beef, le Fin Gras du Mézenc, a marbled cut of steak sprinkled with tiny hints of fat that melt during cooking to give it a rich flavor.

Chris O’Brien

Le Pecq

Chartres is located in the Eure-et-Loir department of the Centre-Val de Loire region. The city is about an hour southwest of Paris and is known for its artistic culture and community, especially for the spectacular stained glass windows of its Notre Dame Cathedral (La cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres).

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