There are endless good reasons to visit Strasbourg in northeastern France along the German border.
There is the famed Christmas market in the winter. The soaring Gothic Cathédrale Notre-Dame. The European Parliament where, on occasion, politicians gather to do some stuff. You can catch views of the Rhine River. Or, wander the streets of the old downtown.
We did all of that. But we also came to eat.
And so we ate like fiends, indulging our love for the region’s Germanic-influenced gastronomy. After sampling the famed Christmas markets (see here), we eventually moved on to several outstanding local spots (both traditional and non-traditional).
Here is our culinary roadmap.
La Corde À Linge (clothesline)
2, Place Benjamin Zix
Our first stop was chosen randomly but we got extremely lucky. Perched right on the river, no reservations are needed for this cozy restaurant.
Top: “Pur Laine” hamburger with bacon (left); “dentelle” of beef with salt, vegetables, potatoes, parsley, and mustard sauce (middle); tartine flambée (right).
Bottom: Le Marcel salad (left): lettuce, goat cheese, red onions, cauliflower, parsnips, pear, and tomatoes. Creamy cheese spaetzle (right).
Les Chauvins Père & Fils
3, rue du Faisan
Les Chauvins serves "tapas alsaciennes." It's a genius concept for sampling regional favorites:
Top row (left to right): Fleischschnäcke (meat-wrapped noodles); Hot Dog Alsacien (with bacon and horseradish); Grumbeerekiechle bibelesk (potato pancakes).
Second row: Cappucinos du moment (butternut squash); Carpaccio de légumes d’automne.
Third row: Flammekueche; Mini-Burgers.
Left: “Kougelhopf” prepared as “pain perdu” (French Toast) with fresh fruit and cream.
Right: “Fondant maison au chocolat Equateur” from the Schaal chocolate factory in Geispolsheim and ice cream.
Piano Grill
8 Pl. Saint-Étienne
Nestled in a little square off the tourist path, this sweet bistro was incredibly welcoming on a cold day. The neighborly vibe was matched by very good food.
Left: “Crazy Salad” with treviso, lettuce, red cabbage, roasted butternut squash, walnuts, comté, smoked duck breast, pan-liver escalope, and grapes.
Right: Burgers for the kiddos
Salon de thé Grand'Rue
Salon de thé
80, Grand’Rue
Left: Tarte au fromage (cheesecake)
Right: Gratin aux fruits
Café Bretelles
Another random find: We stumbled into this small, artisanal cafe for a delightful brunch.
Left: Granola Breakfast
Right: Chai latte, Pomme Continental Breakfast Chocolat Chaud.
Center: Continental Breakfast with egg and ham.
Not pictured: Giant homemade Twix bar.
Chris O’Brien
Paris, France
J'adore Strasbourg. My stepson just started université there. And I'd like to add, for those (like me) who really are not big fans of Christmas markets, Strasbourg is a marvelous, gorgeous town to visit any old time!
A long time ago, shortly before we left for Europe I cooked a pork loin from one of the big meat packing places. It was so full of chemicals we couldn't eat it. Thinking of it is unpleasant.
We stayed a couple of days in Strasbourg, in a hotel looking straight at the Cathedral. The first night we went out to a restaurant recommended in a guidebook. I got the choucroutte garnie, and it was the best port I have ever eaten. Part of a chop, a pork sausage, and a chunk of ham. It was fatty and delicious. None of your US lean pork. The choucroutte was utterly unlike anything I ever get in the US; I don't know what it was but I loved it.
Why have I never been back?