Dreaming Of France: Fontfroide Abbey
The Cistercian abbey near Narbonne mixes austere architecture, Mediterranean landscapes, and modern art.
During our summer vacation in Southern France, we took a day trip to Fontfroide Abbey. The site had been on my radar because of its connection to the region’s Cathar history. But beyond its links to everyone’s favorite heretics, it’s a spectacular example of Medieval architecture.
The abbey is at the center of Fontfroide Massif — about 4,000 hectares of rolling hills that eventually merge into the Pyrénées. It’s a jumping-off point for several hikes, though we didn’t get a chance to explore the hills because most of the routes were closed due to potential fire hazards. Still, the Mediterranean landscape makes a lovely backdrop.
Founded in 1093, Fontfroide Abbey became part of the Cistercian order in 1145, a movement known for its austere lifestyle and devotion to simplicity. This transition marked the beginning of the abbey's golden age, as it gained influence in the religious and political affairs of the region.
During the Albigensian Crusade — the crackdown against the Cathar heretics — in the 13th century, the abbey played a significant role.
As the Cathar movement spread throughout the Southern France region of Occitania, the inappropriately named Pope Innocent III condemned them as heretics. The monks of Fontfroide supposedly tried to persuade the Cathars to cease and desist in their attempts to reestablish a more pious sect of Christianity. The pope appointed Pierre de Castelnau — a Fontroide monk — as papal legate to snuff out the Cathar movement.
In early 1208, Castelnau was assassinated, allegedly by someone working for Cathar sympathist Raymond VI, Count of Toulouse. This became part of the pretext for the pope to team up with French nobles in the north to launch a bloody crusade to wipe out the Cathars and fully annex the semi-independent region. Local feelings about this still remain raw.
Fontfroide remained an influential force in Medieval Christianity, with one of its monks Jacques Fournier becoming Pope Benedict XII.
While the abbey had a good run, by the early 20th century, the monks were gone and the buildings were in an advanced state of decay. In 1908, it was bought by local art collector and painter Gustave Fayet and his wife Madeleine. Gustave devoted his life to restoring the abbey though eventually returned to painting and collecting.
Today, Fontfroide Abbey is not only a historical monument but also a cultural center. It regularly hosts concerts, art exhibitions, and wine tastings. The abbey produces wine from its own vineyards which can be sampled in its gourmet restaurant.
Mellow Vibes
To reach the abbey, we drove past dozens of the region’s vineyards to arrive at the secluded spot. A small stone bridge took us over a stream and into the outer limits of the abbey. While there were a few dozen visitors wandering about, it was still incredibly serene. The abbey’s sandstone walls have been weathered by centuries of wind and sun, but they are still in remarkable condition.
The majestic Romanesque church is the centerpiece of the abbey. With lofty ceilings, the church is otherwise a model of Cistercian architecture which reflected the monks’ devotion to a life of prayer and humility.
The sparse decoration is only interrupted with just the occasional carved image or stained-glass window.
The Cloisters
The heart of any abbey is its cloister. The square courtyard at Fontfroide is surrounded by elegant arcades, each column adorned with intricate carvings that reveal an artistic spirit long before the Fayets arrived.
Walking through the cloister, the cool shade of the arches provided some nice relief from the scorching Mediterranean sun. In the center of the courtyard, there was a garden with lavender and rosemary, a hint that Frontfroide has also become a host for various floral exhibitions.
The cloisters were once the hub of monastic life, where monks would walk in silence, read scripture, and engage in contemplative prayer. The view from each archway into the surrounding hills feels like it hasn’t changed much in subsequent centuries.
The Rose Garden
On the far side of the abbey is a rose garden that was originally planted in the early 20th century by the Fayets. The garden, framed by the hills surrounding the abbey, is another spot where one can understand that this must have been the perfect meditative spot for those monks.
Central Courtyard
In the abbey’s early years, the central courtyard was the location of various workshops, including a forge and a bakery. The placement was strategic because its well provided access to water from an underground stream of cold water. Thus the name: “font froide” which means “cold spring.”
Like much of the abbey, it also doubles as an exhibition space for various collections.
Modern Art Love
Since the purchase and restoration by Gustave, Fontfroide has been hosting artists and their works. When we visited, the featured exhibition was by street artist Spiktri, who creates art from reused objects.
It’s amazing to think that there was a pretty decent chance Fontfroide wouldn’t exist today. That it still manages to reflect the spirit of the couple that rescued it from oblivion by tastefully blending its architectural legacy with a celebration of modernism makes it a triumph of preservation that was well worth the detour.
Chris O’Brien
Paris, France
This is such a magical place. I was lucky enough to visit it quite a few years ago.
Nice piece Chris. Fontfroide is completely worth a visit, and at different times of year too given the garden. The restaurant is also great value and a lovely setting.