Dreaming Of France: Lagrasse

This Southwest French town has an artsy vibe, a well-preserved Medieval city center, a touch of Cathar history, and access to trails in the surrounding hills.

Lagrasse is in the Aude Departement of the Occitanie Region, tucked between Carcassone, Narbonne, and the Pyrénées.

During our summer vacation in the South, we made the 40-minute drive to Lagrasse, following a winding road through vineyards before climbing a twisting road over the hills that eventually dropped us into a valley where the town sits.

Lagrasse’s status as a regional tourism hub was confirmed by the presence of several large tourist buses and a parking lot with a special section for campers and RV. Still, the city center hardly felt overwhelmed with visitors even at the height of tourist season in early August.

The historic city center features limestone buildings that have been well maintained, and the cobblestone streets are worth wandering in any direction without a map.

Eventually, our stroll took us into the Église Saint-Michel de Lagrasse, a Gothic structure that dates to the 14th century but has undergone numerous renovations and expansions since then.

Cathar Connection

In terms of historical hotspots, everything in Lagrasse is overshadowed by the Romanesque l’Abbaye Sainte-Marie de l’Orbieu, which dates back to 799.

The Lagrasse Abbey was one of the most powerful Benedictine abbeys of the Languedoc region in Southwestern France. The abbey is listed among the 22 official sites of the “Pays Cathare,” but there isn’t much of a link to the heretics (who didn’t believe in building things and writing). The 13th-century crusade by Northerners to wipe out the Cathars and annex the South weakened the abbey’s influence and financial status.

However, that doesn’t diminish its modern-day splendor. Beyond its architectural delights, the Abbey also serves as a cultural center, primarily for books and reading, with a book store and a rich lineup of events throughout the year.

Indeed, Lagrasse has become renowned for its thriving community of artisans, including weavers, glassmakers, potters, and numerous other designers. Turn any corner and you will discover another boutique or workshop.

Outdoors

While many of the tourists arriving plunged right into the old Medieval city center, many others headed straight to the numerous paths into the surrounding hills. Lagrasse serves as a kind of gateway into the foothills of the Pyrénées.

During a previous visit, we hiked one of those trails: “Les fesses de Charlemagne.” (the buttocks of Charlemagne) It started with a pretty stiff climb uphill for 30 minutes, but the result was spectacular views of the surrounding countryside.

This time, we stayed in the valley and followed the River Orbieu west for about 45 minutes. Just outside of town, a small damn had created a popular swimming spot.

Further down, we passed small farms connected to the abbey and abundant wild blackberry picking.

Food And Drink

We arrived after lunch, so we didn’t test any of the restaurants. But walking down the main road we regretted that a bit as we watched others finish off their lunches at the several restaurants lining the boulevard.

However, I couldn’t resist a stop at the Kino Karo boutique. We had discovered Kino Karo during our epic lunch in Minerve when I ordered L’estivale aperitif: Kino Karo, sparking wine, slices of orange and lemon. I asked the waiter to describe Kino Karo, and he said it is a bitter regional spirit with a kind of citrus-y twang.

Stopping at the shop, the clerk gave us a bit of history behind the drink. In 1928, a local named André Carreau developed a quinquina spirit, an aromatized wine that is a cousin to vermouth but that used local plants to create its distinct aroma and flavor. As a business, it eventually faded away.

Then in 2020, his grandson Aurélien Carrelas resurrected the recipe and relaunched the business. The modern version gets its flavor from Haitian Bitter Orange, Ecuadorian Quinquina, and Madagascar's Cinnamon, as well as a mix of local plants.

I left with a sampler kit to experiment with later.

On our walk back to the parking lot we made a detour into La Cour Des Saveurs, which includes La Basse Cour restaurant, a coffee stand, and a local vinegar shop.

Of all the temptations, we chose Moulin de Boysède, an artisanal bakery run by the owners of a local honey farm. The sign outside promised “honey and cookies.”

We bought the cookies, which were almost gone by the time we got home. A sweet way to end the day.

Chris O’Brien

Paris, France